Metamorphose’s gathered A line OP cuts: roundup and tryons

July 30, 2018

Metamorphose’s gathered A line OP cuts: roundup and tryons

Being on the large end of the sizing range for most Japanese brands, I have gone through a lot of trial and error over the years to figure out which designs/cuts from my favorite brands are likely to fit me. Today I am sharing my experience with one that worked surprisingly well for me: gathered A-line OP cuts, affectionately called “sack dresses”, “tent dresses”, or “muumuus”, from Metamorphose. Normally Japanese brand OPs without full shirring are out of the question for many plus size people but these offer a bit more flexibility! This cut appears to have been popular in the early days of Metamorphose, then it took a break, then began reappearing occasionally around 2011 or so but has been especially popular in the last several years, with many original print releases (at least 2-3 per year since 2016) appearing in this cut. They’re more voluminous than they used to be, too.

LIST NOTES

All of the dresses listed below have no shirring and are gathered above the bust line. I grouped them by neckline shape from least to most fitted: OPEN (base of neck has some space around it), CLOSED (fitted around base of neck), and HIGH (fitted around base of neck and extends upward onto the neck).

Of the ones where official measurements are known, the official overbust measurement (usually 5.5 cm above the fullest part of the bust) ranges from 96 cm to 102 cm. Click links to individual dress entries for more information.
The less fitted they are at the neck, the more size flexibility there is.
Most have back zippers (especially newer ones) but some button partially or completely down the front (mostly older ones). Check links for more details.
Cuff (end of sleeve circumference) measurement is usually flexible since many cuffs are fully elasticized, but there is an upper limit and it varies a bit.
The other parts that limit size flexibility are those that don’t stretch: shoulder width (distance across the top from one armhole seam to the other) and armscye (the inside circumference of the arm hole where the sleeve attaches to the body of the dress).

TRYONS

I have tried each of the neckline shapes and coordinated them. For reference, I am 153 cm (5 ft 1 in) tall and have 108 cm bust, 41 cm shoulder width, 40 cm neck circumference, 55 cm arm length (to wrist), 31 cm upper arm circumference, and 15 cm wrist.

#1: CANDY SHOWER (open neck)

Of the dresses listed above, this is one with the most open neckline. It has a back zipper. The sleeve openings stretch, and the skirt is gathered at the yoke in the back and at the neckline in the front, under the collar. Basically, as long as your head fits through the hole in the top, the sleeves aren’t too tight around your arms, the upper part of your bust fits (official measurement 102 cm, taken 5 cm above the bust line), and you are personally comfortable with the length, it’s very plus size friendly. I personally think this looks and feels best with some kind of belt to bring it in at the waist – it’s loose and floppy in the back otherwise, and the big ruffles on the skirt of this particular cut make it look kind of frumpy without anything to bring it in unless you’re skinny). Just something to give it some shape so it isn’t hanging straight down from your bust and secure enough that it won’t shift around a lot. It’ll feel a little less like you could hide multiple children in your dress like you’re Mother Ginger from the Nutcracker :)

#2: WONDER CAROUSEL (closed neck)

I also got the Wonder Carousel Angel Collar A Line OP. The yoke is a little tight around the arm seams (more than the Candy Shower OP) but not uncomfortable. The official overbust measurement is 96 cm. The long sleeves are gathered at the top and elasticized at the bottom, so they fit comfortably and offer a bit more flexibility with shoulder width.

#3: GINGHAM CHECK (closed neck)

I was lucky enough to snag this old school gem on Closet Child earlier this year! This dress has heart buttons all the way down the front to get in and out (I usually unbutton only the top ones to fit my head through). It is made out of a nice thick woven cotton. The skirt is not as full as the others and doesn’t fit a full size petticoat, so to create some shape I wore it with a belt.

#4: NOBLE TEA PARTY (high neck)

I waited for a really good deal on a high neck cut because I was doubtful that the neck would fit. Turns out it does! It’s snug but not uncomfortable. I don’t think it would be comfortable on people with a larger neck than mine (>40 cm) though. As with the others, the arm holes feel a little bit high since they go kind of far into my armpits but it’s not a deal breaker for me. In fact, it might feel weird only because I’m likely used to the fit of tops that are too long for me.

OVERALL OBSERVATIONS

I think this type of dress shape looks especially cute on short people because it has a child or doll like look due to its loose fit that de-emphasizes body shape. If you are tall and want to try out this style, I advise you to choose the longer dresses and don’t wear a belt because it will shorten the dress (or if you do, plan to wear a coordinating underskirt that's longer than the dress). Most of the newer ones are a bit longer than the older ones but it varies; check the links for measurements.
If you have a large, full bust it will usually shorten the overall length of the dress a bit in the front.
If you have a slightly larger shoulder width than the dress says it has (by 2-3 cm), you might still be able to fit into it if the sleeves are puffed at the top.
Two of the dresses I tried on have long sleeves, and they felt a little bit short even on me. My arms are proportional to my smaller frame but if you are tall and/or have long arms they might be too short for you; I’d suggest wearing wrist cuffs to give them more length or stick to ones with short sleeves.
If you desire a little bit of shape, I think they look best with a petticoat underneath, and additionally for the ones with big ruffles on the bottom, a belt. However, if you’re skinny or like how you look in straight cut dresses you might not need or want these things, especially if you’re wearing it more casually.

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Metamorphose’s gathered A line OP cuts: roundup and tryons

LIST NOTES

OPEN NECKLINE

CLOSED NECKLINE

HIGH NECKLINE

TRYONS

#1: CANDY SHOWER (open neck)

#2: WONDER CAROUSEL (closed neck)

#3: GINGHAM CHECK (closed neck)

#4: NOBLE TEA PARTY (high neck)

OVERALL OBSERVATIONS

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